Japanese yukata cottons hand-dyed with geometric patterns in the Okan Arts inventory

decoding japanese geometrics

By Patricia Belyea

Geometric designs on yukata cottons signal that the fabric was made for men’s kimono. Traditionally the patterns were hand-dyed in indigo and white.

The range of patterns is seemingly endless. From purely abstracted geometric forms to well-known Japanese motifs to simplified everyday objects, geometric yukata cottons hold meaning and offer lots of inspiration.

Let’s take a look at some well-known patterns:

Tortoise shell (symbolizing longevity) with diagonal stripes

Tortoise shell pattern for geometric yukata cotton at Okan Arts

Nested measuring boxes

Nested measuring boxes pattern for geometric yukata cotton at Okan Arts

 Basketweave (a modern interpretation)

Basketweave pattern for geometric yukata cotton at Okan Arts

 Woven bamboo

Woven bamboo pattern for geometric yukata cotton at Okan Arts

Four eyes (denotes preparedness for attack on all sides)

Four eyes pattern for geometric yukata cotton at Okan Arts

Waterfall stripes

Waterfall stripes pattern for geometric yukata cotton at Okan Arts

Woven (a popular pattern when specialty woven fabrics were expensive)

Woven pattern for geometric yukata cotton at Okan Arts

Double lattice (known as hishi and inspired by the leaves of the water chestnut)

Double lattice pattern for geometric yukata cotton at Okan Arts

Complex pattern with wooden pestles, bamboo stripes and lattice

Complex pattern for yukata cotton at Okan Arts


Sometimes geometric patterns are created in different color combinations than indigo and white. Here are three patterns dyed with two shades of indigo:

Hemp (elongated, with dashed lines)

Hemp pattern for yukata cotton at Okan Arts

Stripes (once reserved for the nobility)

Striped pattern for yukata cotton at Okan Arts

Complex pattern with abacus beads, stripes, basketweave and interlocking nested boxes

Complex pattern for yukata cotton at Okan Arts

Using geometric patterns in quilt compositions

In this detail of Ikebana, inserted arcs of bold geometric patterns—tortoise shell and hemp—contrast with the background grid of petite geometric patterns.

Detail of Ikebana, a quilt by Patricia Belyea of Okan Arts

The indigo stripes in Fragmented, a curved quilt composition made with improv-pieced yukata cottons, creates the most drama.

Detail of Fragmented, a quilt by Patricia Belyea of Okan Arts

Combining geometric yukata cottons with English Paper Piecing creates a compelling look.

EPP with geometric yukata cottons from Okan Arts

To see the complete collection of Geometric Yukata Cottons at Okan Arts +click here

Header photo by Kate Baldwin Photography