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By Patricia Belyea
TOKYO, JP A picturesque vermillion temple floats on an island in a snowstorm. This image, created nearly a century ago by Kawase Hasui, adorned a holiday card from Ellen and Tom in Santa Cruz.
I immediately wondered if I could see this scene in person. My research led me to the Benzaiten Temple in Inokashira Park, a green oasis in the western suburbs of Tokyo.
From my Shinjuku hotel, I took a quick 20-minute train ride to Kichijoji Station. From there, I walked through the stylish neighborhood to the park. As I strolled down toward Isokashira Pond, I caught my first glimpse of the temple.
In recreating the image, my camera angle wasn’t quite high enough and trees obstructed parts of the temple. Still, I was thrilled to see the bright red structure and sweeping roof in real life.
Benzaiten, the goddess of all that flows—water, love, time, music, wealth, and words—is the oldest member of the Seven Lucky Gods. She is closely associated with dragons and snakes.
The seated statue of Benzaiten in the Inokashira temple has eight arms, each holding a weapon: a bow, an arrow, a sword, a spear, an axe, a vajra, a wheel, and a noose.
The enshrined statue is hidden from view and revealed only once every 12 years—during the Year of the Snake. That’s this year!
I wasn’t lucky enough to see the goddess. The unveiling lasts just two days in April, requires a reservation, and draws nonstop crowds.
A rare stone sculpture sits near the temple. According to legend, an elderly couple’s daughter was born with three scales on her neck. At 16, she leaped into the pond and transformed into a white snake. In their grief, the couple carved this statue of Ugajin, the god of harvest and fertility — a snake with an old man’s head.
The three scales from the snake-girl’s neck now appear on the temple lanterns and banners as three triangles.
During my visit, the temple grounds were nearly empty. The serenity of the moment and the sacredness of the place filled me with deep satisfaction. My curiosity had led me on an adventure well off the beaten path!
Another delight awaited me in the park: plum blossoms in full bloom, ranging from pure white to deep pink. Their five rounded petals with a storm of fluffiness in the center signaled the arrival of Spring.
Continuing through the Park, I crossed the pond via a footbridge, pausing to admire the temple from a new vantage point. Afterward, I found a trendy French-Vietnamese restaurant for a late lunch before retracing my steps to my onsen hotel.
Inokashira Park Benzaiten Shrine
4 Chome-1 Inokashira
Mitaka, 181-0001
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ABOUT US: Okan Arts, a petite family business, is co-owned by mother-daughter duo Patricia Belyea and Victoria Stone. Patricia and Victoria sell Japanese textiles online, host creative quilting experiences, and lead quilting & textile tours to Japan.
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