For info on Okan Arts textile tours to Japan, click +here
By Patricia Belyea
KYOTO JP Steve Jobs was a frequent visitor to Kyoto, drawn to its Zen Buddhist temples and gardens. Saihō-ji, the famous Moss Temple, was reportedly his favorite.
After a dozen trips to Kyoto, I finally made it to this sublime enclave of meditation and moss.
I’d learned in advance that the Saihō-ji only allows a limited number of visitors each day. Tickets can be purchased online up to two months in advance. With a tight travel schedule, I could only visit on the morning of October 14.
(My phone alarm went off while I was teaching a class on August 14. I excused myself 'for personal reasons' and stepped outside to secure my ticket — the minute reservations opened in Japan for my chosen date and time.)
It was a half-hour taxi drive from my downtown hotel to the entry gate of Saihō-ji. I was gently ushered in and given a paper with a Japanese sutra to copy and a calligraphic marker pen.
As I entered Sairai-do, the main hall, I was surrounded by a sea of low red tables — most occupied by international visitors. Sitting on the tatami floor at one of the few empty tables, I joined the others. I concentrated on writing on top of the Japanese characters, a practice called shakyō, as I worked to slow my thoughts. 
Not everyone in the room was mindful of the request for silence. Even with the minimal distractions, I was pleased with myself. I had heard of the practice of copying Buddhist scriptures and now I was doing it!
A half hour later, homework complete, I handed over my marker pen and proceeded out of the hall. Along the way, I passed a table offering Saihō-ji goshuin. For ¥500, I bought a commemorative paper seal featuring Daruma Daishi, the monk traditionally regarded as the founder of Zen Buddhism. The compelling illustration showed his face filled with determination.
Kyoto had seen some rain in the days leading up to my visit. On the morning of October 14, there was a little drizzle around 6am. By the time I was walking through the garden, the skies had cleared to blue, with pearly white clouds. As I proceeded into the two-level garden, I first saw a mini bamboo grove.
Then came the expanse of moss, where 120 varieties glowed neon green! The velvety landscape, full of mini hills and valleys, was like nothing I had ever seen before.
The garden, designed by Musō Soseki in 1339, has changed considerably over the centuries. The original design featured white sand, green pines and seasonal cherry blossoms!As I walked down to the Golden Pond, I was careful not to slip on the still-wet stone steps.The verdant peacefulness enveloped me.
Yes, I was sharing the moment with others. And yes, I had to stop occasionally to let others take their picture-perfect photos. My choice was to let all of that wash by me.
In 1977, Saihō-ji began limiting the number of visitors it welcomed. At the time, it was already one of Kyoto's most popular temple destinations. The decision wasn't a bold business move. Instead, the temple wanted to protect its fragile garden and preserve its contemplative atmosphere.
Today, Kyoto's must-see sights are mobbed with tourists — shoulder-to-shoulder, like a NYC cocktail party. Promotional photos, shot in the early morning, promise magic and mystery, maybe even a touch of enlightenment. The reality can be disheartening.Saihō-ji offers a different experience. By requiring advance reservations and controlling access, it provides a Zen moment for those willing to slow down and enjoy its extraordinary garden.
As I think back on my time there, I appreciate it more and more.THE TEMPLE COST
A typical visit to a Kyoto temple costs ¥800 to ¥1,000 — about $5 to $6.
My Saihō-ji admission ticket, purchased online, cost ¥4,110 ($26). The two taxi rides, to and from the temple, added another ¥8,600 ($54). Total: $80.
Was it worth it? You know the answer. Yes!I'm so thankful I walked through Saihō-ji's moss garden on a perfect fall day and felt the momentousness of being alive and present in its beauty.
# # # # #
ABOUT US: Okan Arts, a petite family business, is co-owned by mother-daughter duo Patricia Belyea and Victoria Stone. Patricia and Victoria import vintage Japanese textiles, host in-person and online creative quilting experiences, and lead textile tours to Japan and the UK.
FOLLOW OKAN ARTS ON INSTAGRAM @okanarts
